Gun Safety!

(Taken From: Roy Agosta; Manual of Basic Police Firearms Instructions and Safe Handling Practices; Charles C. Thomas, Springfield. 1974, pg 10.)

"Safety rules in themselves never prevented an accident. It is the conscious practice of safety rules to the point where they become automatic that prevents accidents with firearms....The person with a weapon in his possession has a full-time job; he cannot assume, he cannot guess, he cannot afford to forget, even for an instant; HE MUST ALWAYS KNOW EXACTLY WHAT HE IS DOING. [Therefore,] YOU MUST ALWAYS KNOW:

• How it works.
• Whether its loaded.
• Where its pointed.
• Where your target is.
• What is behind the target.
• Where the round will go.
• Where the round will stop."

 

For reenactors, there are additional rules that everybody must adhere to:

• Always act as if the weapon you carry is loaded, even if you know it is empty!
• Inspect all weapons for safe operation regularly.
• Firing live requires a designated, posted and supervised area such as a firing range.
• Do not carry loaded weapons onto the field or into a classroom or onto a firing range.
• Never carry live rounds when told to use blanks only.
• If you use both live and blank rounds, make live rounds obviously different from blanks. Although colored bands for live cartridges is standard practice, it is preferred that they be a different shape than blanks.
• Keep unnecessary conversations to an absolute minimum when handling both loaded weapons and live ammunition.
• Observe all rules of the field (written and verbal).
• Never point a firearm directly at someone -- always elevate the muzzle to point over your opponent's head.
• For muzzle loading firearms, the practice of wadding and ramming is discouraged, especially when engaged in tactical weapons demonstrations and battle reenactments with opposing armies. (One careless mistake can leave the ramrod in the barrel,which becomes a deadly projectile when fired. {The author has seen ramrods driven several inches into trees!).

Timeline for the Flintlock

First introduced about 1680

In general use about 1725

Phase out begins about 1835

Last general use of flintlocks 1860

What is a flintlock?

A flintlock is any pistol, rifle or musket that uses flint and steel ignition. Furthermore, "muskets" are smoothbored weapons much like a modern day shotgun while "rifles" have a series of spiral grooves cut into the barrel which imparts a "spin" to the ball as it leaves the gun thus improving its accuracy. " "Pistols" are most often rifled although many early ones are smoothbored.

In all cases, however, these weapons use the natural tendency of certain types of stone (flint, chert, amber and agate) to produce a shower of sparks when they strike hardened steel.

What makes it work?

The shooter pulls the trigger, releasing the energy stored in the main spring which forces the cock (hammer) forward. As the cock falls forward, the flint strikes the harded steel frizzen which removes tiny red hot shards of steel. These sparks fall into the pan and the primiing, setting it off. This flash sends a small jet of flame through the vent in the barrel and into the main charge inside and ignites it. Once ignited, the main charge pushes the ball out the barrel at speeds of up to 2,500 feet per second.

How to load and fire a Flintlock weapon

Step 1

Pour powder

Measure and pour proper amount of powder into the muzzle of the gun.

Step 2

Start Ball (bullet)

Using a lubricated patch, push ball into the muzzle. (Thin cloth patches make for a tight fit and an accurate load).

Step 3

Ram

Push the ball completely down the barrel.

Step 4

Half cock

Open the pan and pull the hammer (the cock) to the middle position. Note that the trigger will not release the hammer in this position. It is called the "half cock" or safety position.

Step 5

Prime

Clean the vent, Prime the pan with extra fine gun powder. Shut pan.

Step 6

Ready

Pull the hammer to to full cock position.

Step 7

Aim

Take your aim.

Step 8

Fire

Pull the trigger.

Terminology spawned by the flintlock

Going off Half Cocked

"Going off half cocked" is to be in such a hurry that while your weapon has a load in the barrel, it isn't primed. Thus leaving you with a partly loaded weapon. Such a weapon is useless.

Flash in the pan

A "flash in the pan" can occur when the vent between the pan and the main charge is plugged, and only the powder in the pan ignites. Since this is a dangerous condition, it is very undesireable. When it does happen, the shooter must point the weapon down range for a number of seconds in hopes that the weapon will fire. If it doesn't, the vent must be cleaned and the pan re-primed and tried again. In a few cases, the priming will fail to set off the main charge at all and the charge must be removed and the gun cleaned before it will function properly.

Hang fire

A "Hang fire" occurs when there is a delay between the ignition of the priming in the pan and the main charge. this delay may be only momentary or it could be several seconds. In any event, it is an extremely dangerous condition and all due caution must be exercised when it happens.

Lock, stock and barrel

As these are the major components of a musket, the phrase means to have everything, the "lock," the "stock" and the "barrel".

How to keep flints

Flint and its cousins (chert, amber, and agate) , if left to normal exposure, will dry out and become brittle. To prevent this from happening, store all gun flints in oil. Mineral oils work best although any oil will work. Ideally, these flints should be stored in a container of oil for long term storage. When kept like this for long term, your flints will last longer and will spark better when they are used.

Bullet sizes (Round Ball)

Bullet wt (Grains)

Bullets per pound

Note: 1 pound = 7000 grains.